2-FLASHING
A-Flashing Basics
Option 1
Make sure the deck is flashed properly. There should be ledger flashing installed behind the siding over top of the ledger board and under the decking material. If not, you may have to remove the deck boards closest to the ledger board and install the flashing. Make sure the deck flashing extends out from the ledger past the G-Channel. If not, add additional flashing so that the flashing protrudes 5”beyond the ledger board. (Figure A)
Option 2
If the ledger board is not flashed properly, you can start the system below the ledger board. The purpose of the flashing is to catch anywater that may back-flow behind the ledger and redirect it
into the pans of the system. If the flashing is not done properly water will continue to flow down the wall of the home. Flashing below the ledger can be done in a number of ways depending on the type of siding material. It is ideal to secure the flashing
directly to the outsidewall of the home, behind the siding. (Figure B) This is not always an option, and it may be necessary to use a high grade caulk and seal the flashing over top of the siding. On a brick home it is necessary to use a grinder and cut
out a groove (riglet) that the flashing can insert into much like flashing a chimney. The riglet grove must the be sealed with masonry caulk.
B-Side Flashing
Install side flashing to the inside of the rim joist on the leftand right to direct moisture into the pan(s). Typically bent on a break approximately 1”x 5”. Secure this flashing to the joist with Butyl tape and ACQ coated fasteners. (Figure C)
C-Header Flashing
Whether the deck has been built flush or cantilevered (typically upto 18”) the top of the header needs to be flashed so the moisture will be directed into the gutter mounted on the inside
of the header. (Figure D)
Additional Headers and Posts Some local building codes have introduced special fully supported
deck requirements. Depending on the size, configuration of the deck and the distance from the wall to the first support post, you may have to consider each area under the deck as a separate system requiring its own gutter. (Figure E)
Close Space:
If the support post and header are close to the wall (i.e. 12”or less) you may be able to extend the ledger flashing over the first header and start the G-channel from the header rather than the ledger. (Figure F)
3-FRAMEWORK
A-Installing the G-Channel
Install the G-channel at the ledger board as high as possible so the ceiling height is as high as possible. If the Ledger is not flashed properly you may need to put your flashing below the ledger
board and install the G-Channel below the flashing. (Figure B)
B-Install Gutter
There mush be a drop in the pans to create a slope for water to run to the gutters. The slope rate should be 1/4”for every foot. So if the deck is 12 feet deep then there should be 3”of drop from the front lip of the G-channel to the front lip of the gutter. Once it is determined where to hang the gutters, install with hidden hangers and slope the gutter according to local buildingrequirements.
C-Furring pieces
To create the proper slope you use adjustable hangers to hang the carriers. The hanger is initially attached to the joists in the holes provided. This allows for future adjustment.
D-Installing the Carrier
Always startwith the factory edge. Make sure the slope is even so as not to cause the inside out panels to “smile”or “frown.” Toensure an exact and even slope to the system. (Figure L) Once the pans are flat and resting on the lip of the gutter, the hanger can be permanently attached to the joist.
The spacing between carriers should not be more than 4 feet. If the deck has a depth of 12 feet and you evenly spaced two rows of carriers,the deck would be divided into 4 foot segments. The carriers will divide the deck evenly into segments between the carriers.
When joining two carrier pieces together (when width is greater than 12’) the opening that supports the pan must be exactly 1-5/8”. This is accomplished by splicing the carriers together. (Figure H) Use a small section of carrier with the teeth cut off as you splice. Line up the holes to ensure proper spacing.
Always create a barriers (Rescue 911 or TruShield) between the carrierandjoist to prevent the ACQ lumber from eroding the aluminum carrier. Be sure to double check the alignment as you install each carrier. The starting position of each carrier should be predeter- mined by the alignment of the carrier with the side cap.
The gutter must be installed before inserting pans.
4-FINISHING
A-Installing Pans
Install pans into carriers working toward the downspout side. The gutter end of each pan should be “cut and bent”sloping into the gutter. Create a 1/2”lip at the gutter end of all the pans.
Bend the lip down at a 45 degree angle. (Figure G)The G-channel end of each pan should be boxed up to prevent water from backing up and into the G-Channel. The last pan will probably need to be cut to a smaller width. The end pan must have a 3/4”lip bent up to fit into the side cap channel. (Figure I) Screw this last pan into the side cap if necessary to stabilize the side cap.
B-Installing the Side Cap
Cut to length. Miter the end meeting with the G-channel to a 45 degree angle to create a clean look. (Figure J) Cut to fit around the gutter on the opposite end. If fascia is going to cover the rim joist on the outside, the side cap can be installed
between them. Otherwise the side cap is installed on the inside of the rim joist under your flashing. (Figure C)
C-Covering the Cantilever
There are two ways to cover the cantilever or the area that extends beyond the header.
The first option is to think of the cantilever as a separate system. Install it with its own flashing and gutter. This will necessitate installing a gutter on either side of the header. The second option is to customize flashing to divert all water falling into the cantilevered section over the header and into
the gutter being used bythe main system. (Figure K) If this is not done carefully it is likely that there will be leaks. Once all the custom flashing is installed, check for leaks. When complete, install pans and G-channel underneath to finish off the underside of the cantilever.
